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Rin

Thank you for your prompt reply and sorry for the lateness of mine.

I prefer to sew everything by hand as I like to make small bears and find the sewing process very therapeutic.

I think I've been putting too much effort into making the prototype bears as I have still stitched them neatly and stuffed them carefully whereas I should have been doing a quicker stitch like you suggested and then stuffed them quickly as I'm only getting an idea of the proportions and shape.  I made an ear using this method last night as I wanted to see if a bigger ear would look better on a bear I was making and it took hardly any time at all.  It was just weird seeing an orange ear with white stitches on a brown bear lol.

I know it sounds silly but I got so set in my ways that I didn't even realise why my prototypes were taking so long and it took your message to make me take note of the amount of work I was putting into them lol.

Thank you very much for your help.

Kind regards

Christine

Rin

Hi everyone,

Is there a way to test whether a bear pattern you have designed will work without having to make it out of fabric?  I have tried piecing it together as a 3D model out of paper but struggled with pieces that only had 2 parts to them such as the arms.

I hand-draw my patterns onto paper before transferring them onto card and cutting them out and can't always picture what they would look like in 3D.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Kind regards

Rin

Rin

Hi,

Please could someone tell me how to string joint a miniature bear's head?  I usually stitch them in place but would like to try something different.

Also I have seen tutorials on how to string joint limbs but there seems to be a really good method that involves tying the ends together.  Does anyone know how to do this?  I have tried but when I come to tie the ends of the string together one of the limbs does not tighten only the limb where the threads are.  I usually knot one end of the thread, put it through the body and then the arm, go back through the arm in the same stitch so as not to make a dent in the arm and take a small stitch to go through the part of the arm that attaches to the body.  I then go back through the body and do the same for the other arm.  I sometimes go through the limbs a few times to tighten them as much as possible before sewing a knot and burying it in the body.  Is this also a correct method.

Thank you in advance.

Rin

I think I'm going to do a search online for some upholstery velvet and see what I can find.

Please post some pictures of your display when it's done, I'd love to see it  bear_wub

Rin

So pigs can fly.  I knew it!  bear_grin

He's lovely.  I especially like his tiny little trotters.

Rin

I wouldn't want any of my teddies to go to kids at all because it takes so long to do them and I'd hate the thought of them getting wrecked but like you say Rikki some people won't listen.

I'll try coating the weights in varnish or something as suggested by my husband.  I suppose any weighting materials that we use would be hazardous though because steel shot could be swallowed if the bear tears.  Do you think that as long as I put a disclaimer on that it should be okay because I already say that my bears are unsuitable for those under 14 years of age.  I wouldn't feel confident enough to make a bear for a child at the moment because I'd be scared of them choking on something if they managed to rip it apart with or without lead weights in them.

Rin

Omg so small!

I think I'm going to have to get some good upholstery fabric to try and make some really tiny ones.  I got some previously that were a flawed lot to use for practise but it is really good for making miniatures because the sassy fabric I have has knitted backing which is really difficult to work with for tiny bears.

I absolutely love the grey bunny you've made that's with your profile picture.  He is so adorable.

xxx

Rin

Rin

Aw they are adorable minis - so detailed and cute.

How big are they and what material did you use because it looks so soft and fluffy.  I've been using the mini plush fabric from Sassy Bears lately.

xxx

Rin

Rin

As silly as this probably sounds I find it easier to make miniatures of about 2 1/2 inches than the 8 inch bears I've made.  I find it easier to do really tiny stitches rather than bigger ones.  Although people find it really funny when they see me having to use tweezers to stuff the miniature ones.

Rin

Okay I've found out that they are definitely made from lead.

As I mentioned above do you think they will still be okay to use as long as a disclaimer is stated?  Surely glass beads would also be hazardous as if the stitching comes loose at some point they could leak and be eaten by a child or a pet.  I think I'd be more concerned about them than lead.

Also would it take off the toxicity if they were coated in varnish or something so that when handled they wouldn't be in direct contact with the skin?

Rin

I'm wondering if they do turn out to be made of lead if a disclaimer could be placed on the authenticity certificate or something declaring that they contain lead weights.  I have already included a disclaimer which says they are not suitable for anyone under 14 years of age due to small parts on the certificate of authenticity.

If the adult then gives them to a child the onus should be on themselves.

What you said Rikki reminded me of when my husband used to work at GAME and he warned a lady who was buying the video game Grand Theft Auto 4 for her 11-year old son how violent it was and that its 18 rating was justified.  She returned the next day with the game and complained to him that it was not suitable for her child which he had already warned her about.  You're right when you say people don't listen though because things are rated for a reason.

xxx

Rin

Rin

I'll find out what they are made from the next time I go into Leeds just to be on the safe side then after reading that article.  Thanks for bringing this to my attention Rikki.  It was something that never even occurred to me.

Rin

I love the little miniatures on your profile Rikki they are so cute.

I actually started with miniatures and after making some bigger bears prefer the little ones.  I don't know what it is about them but they always fascinate people with their size and charm, myself included  bear_smile

Rin

I never thought of any kind of toxicity to be honest but you've got a good point there Rikki.  It's just making me wonder though that if they're toxic would they be allowed to be used in something that people have in every room of their house?  If so, it would be a serious health hazard.

Rin

Amazing details and lovely face  :rose:

I only hope I can get as good as everyone else on here someday.

Rin

Your bears are so wonderful!

Rin

So adorable and I love the little bug on the tip of her trunk.

Rin

That's a brilliant tip too Rikki, thank you  bear_original

Rin

Thank you for the confirmation that they are curtain weights Michelle and for the kind feedback from everyone.  I had a feeling they were but would have had to wait until I confirmed it the next time I went into the store.

I didn't realise they could cause staining but made a body last week and it seems fine so hopefully they will be okay.  I will let everyone know if I experience any problems with it.  (I hope not because I'm actually pleased with the body for once bear_laugh ).  My husband just suggested that perhaps they could be coated in varnish so that if they are prone to staining this should stop it.

I wanted to bypass having to use ebay or amazon to get weights for my miniatures because they will more than likely incur a steep postage cost so hopefully these can be purchased worldwide in stores to save everyone some money.

xxx

Rin

Rin

Yeah I keep looking through all the posts so I don't post something that has already been asked but there is such a wealth of information it's going to take me a while to get through it  bear_original

Rin

1415135139_rsz_img_20141104_205903702.jpg

The material around the weights frays really easily so I just remove it.  They're really good though because you can cut in between the weights and the whole thing doesn't fall apart so you can put the exact amount in the bear that you need.  It's just a little fiddly trying to position them inside the bear without them showing but if I can do it then anyone can.

The next time I go to Leeds I will find out the correct name of them for you but am sure they were curtain weights.

I feel better now knowing that I've helped because I've received so much help off others on here that I wanted to return the kindness  bear_wub

Rin

I'm unsure of the brand name but they were wrapped around a spool in a similar vein as ribbon.  Samuel Taylor sell them but that's in the UK and I'm unsure if they have stores in the US.

I'll post a picture so that you have something to show the shop what you're looking for  bear_original

Rin

Thanks Michelle.  That does help a lot.  Everyone will probably chuckle and I'll get my hand slapped but that's probably where I was going wrong.  I don't pin them on and check the angles I tend to attach one and then try and match the other to it.  This could also be why the head messes up eventually because I take one ear on and off so much to reposition and stitch it again and then squish the head as I whip stitch it to the head again.  (Also it could be to do with when I throw it to the other side of the room in frustration :lol:.)  I will check that I have put a good amount of stuffing in there too.

Thanks so much this clears up where I was definitely going wrong.

Rin

Hi all,

Just thought I'd share a little knowledge (for once  bear_grin ).

I'd been looking for something to weigh down my bears without having to order some steel shot or something similar from the internet as the postage costs would have been astronomical because of the weight.  No craft shops I know stock any kind of weighting pellets or beads but one member of staff in Samuel Taylor in Leeds suggested I used curtain weights.  These are small but come in various weights and I tried them in the bear I'm making from one of Debbie Kesling's patterns and it seems to have worked brilliantly.

The best thing is that they sell them in metres and you can just cut off one at a time and they won't fall apart.  I can post some pictures if you like just let me know.

Also in case the lady who suggested this to me reads it then I just want to say what a wonderful idea it was  bear_flower

Rin

Hi everyone,

I've been making bears for a while now and realise that I love making miniatures the most.  The problem I am still having though is that I still cannot get the placement of the ears right.

Because I keep taking off the ears and putting them back on to reposition them I squish the head out of shape so I have to take out half of the stuffing and re-stuff it.  Is there an easier way to attach the ears?  I've tried marking the position of them before I attach them but when they are on they don't look right.  I know with bigger bears it's possible to insert them before stuffing the head.  I do like and use the technique by Debbie Kesling whose book I learned from where she whip stitches them on and then adds extra stitches in order to give them a 'cupped' look.

I made one of the bears from the book 'How to Make Enchanting Miniature Bears' and I am pleased with the body but am struggling with the head (as usual bear_cry ).  I really do not like what I have done so am going to cut out the head and start it again.  If anyone has any tips for attaching ears or helpful tips for stuffing the head I would really appreciate it.

I usually make my own bears but have took the advice of others on these forums to practise the patterns of experienced bear artists a little more which really does seem to be helping my techniques a lot.

Thanks very much.

Kind regards

Rin

PS Sorry I put this on the wrong message board originally.

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