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sewzanne Raccoon Creek Bears
New Jersey
Posts: 151

Hi, all- I have some curly mohair and I'm having a hard time figuring out the direction of the nap. It seems to go two ways- sort of diagonal. I would love to know what you experts do- do you follow the direction the fur comes out of the backing, the direction of the curl, or -yikes- on the diagonal? Please help! I am dying to cut out my first designed by me pattern, even though it probably doesn't look all that original. Thanks---
   Suzanne

Amanda Pandy Potter Bears
Staffordshire, UK
Posts: 1,864

Hiya. I think it depends on what type of bear you are doing. On scruffy type bears I would not worry too much as it adds to the effect.
On the last one I did I had the same problem. I followed how the fur lay, even though it was on the diagonal. I use a large T pin on the fur side following the pile, then turn over to see where it lies. You may have to keep checking with the T pin as my mohair pile was all over the place. Stuffing is then the next thing to get right as you may have backing that stretches different ways.
You could always lightly spray the made up bear after and brush in the direction you want. I use hot iron protection spray ( the one you use for your own hair). It is not too sticky and gives a lovely smell and finish when dry.
NO EXPERT myself, so I would also be interested in the replies. All the best Suzanne.

Shelli SHELLI MAKES
Chico, California
Posts: 9,939
Website

Shelli Retired Help Advisor, Banner Sponsor

I'm not nearly a sewing expert myself, but here's my two cents.  I've used mohair on the diagonal when the exact nap direction (which sometimes IS on the diagonal!) mattered.  The problem with doing so, though, and here's where my sewing expertise gets a little muddy (but I think I have the basic idea here), is that you are then working ... on the bias?... against the grain?   I don't know the precise WORDING for what you're doing when you lay pieces to flow along a diagonal nap.  But I know the IDEA is that in doing so, you are not using the 90 degree weave to your best advantage.  I think the mohair backing, which is woven, flexes/bends/gets more easily pulled out of shape/maybe even frays more easily/and otherwise DISTORTS a little bit if you lay pieces on the diagonal.

Please, someone who is a real seamstress... help me here!  I know you'll have the terminology available to express what I'm trying so clumsily to say!

PS  While this isn't an IDEAL solution, when the nap is ALL diagonal in direction, I do it anyway, and frankly, think my bears have turned out just fine!

Amanda Pandy Potter Bears
Staffordshire, UK
Posts: 1,864

I would agree with Shelli. I'm sure there are technical reasons not to do bias/diagonal but then I never was technical. I don't like reading instructions either. So go with the fur flow, so to speak and I'm sure it will be just fine.

Dilu Posts: 8,574

Hi Shelli and Amanda
When you lay patterns on the diagonal it is called the bias.   Great for [INVALID] full chiffon and silk skirts....but maybe not for bears.

When you go to stuff you will have parts stretching out that perhaps you don't want.

There are ways to protect yourself from too much stretching.

One way would be to cut muslin pieces on the straight grain and then do your bias pieces on the mohair.  Take some "quilter's spray adhesive" easy to find in fabric stores or Walmart.  Spray the muslin lightly and then lay your mohair pieces over the corresponding muslin piece.  Then sew as usual.

The muslin will protect your mohair from stretching out of shape when you start stuffing. 

The quilters basting spray is a very light adhesive that is used to hold all 4 parts of a quilt together so that it can be more easily pinned and sewn, or quilted.

It wont affect the texture of the mohair if you use a light amount.

Hope this helps answer a question or two....I can see the advantages to a bias cut on parts of a bear, like the two side head pieces for really fat cheeks.  or just a tummy piece for a santa fat roly poly....its worth a try to see how it would come out.  If I were to deliberately to this I would not use the muslin.

When you start sewing with a bias piece that you haven't backed with muslin handle the piece carefully....no pulling or stretching.  However if it should stretch when you pin you can finish your pinning and then use your steam iron to steam heat shrink the stretched parts back in place

This will only work if you haven't washed and machine dried your mohair....then the shrinking has already taken place.

OK

Now get back to work Dilu!   Some people will do anything to avoid doing housework- bear_grin

Winney Winneybears and Friends
White City, Oregon
Posts: 1,103

OK..I think I can help....
The fabric has 2 edges that have some small holes running up and down the fabric ...this is  the SELVAGE edges.
This is where the fabric was held during manufacturig by small " nails" for lack of a better word.When the fabric completes manufacturing it is usually then put up in big rolls...some fabric is put up in bolts.

Now..having said that...the STRAIGHT of the fabric runs in the same direction as the edges, up and down.
This is the direction of the fabric that has the LEAST amount of " give" or stretch to it. It also called The STRAIGHT OF THE GRAIN

An easy way to explain NAP is to think of a cat's tongue...it is rough going up ( against the nap) and smooth going down ( with the  nap).
  On some patterns there is an arrow marked...this means to lay the pattern so the DIRECTION of the nap ( fur) goes  in the direction of the arrow.( down)

OK...so if the STRAIGHT is up and down .....then what is it called going ACROSS the fabric ?...ACROSS THE GRAIN or AGAINST THE GRAIN
That direction has some stretch to it , at least it is more stretch than on the straight.
So...that is why patterns are marked with an  nap arrow not only for nap but ...so the CROSS GRAIN ends up going around the round body parts and will stretch / give some.

Hmmm. let me explain DIAGONAL to you...If you draw a square 12" x 12",  then get out your ruler and make a straight line from the upper right hand corner to the lower left hand corner ...that's a diagonal direction .. which in sewing is called "the true bias " . Laying patterns with the arrow going in this direction will give the most stretch .

So...the first choice to lay bear parts is of course is with the arrow  going down the fur... with the straight.
The second best choice would be going across the grain...with some stretch.
The direction that will  give you the most stretch is the bias...which will also give you the most distortion in shape when you stuff it .
However, you could use that stretch to your advantage , I mean if you want it to stretch for a reason.
Another way would be to line that part with muslin so  it can't stretch .
Yet another way would be to be aware of the stretch when you go to stuff  and needlesculpt that part and compensate accordingly.

I am thinking wouldn't it be easier to first straighten out the fur nap  by steaming it with a hand held steamer ( I have one ) than to have to lay parts going every which way because of nap distortion ?......Winney

Shelli SHELLI MAKES
Chico, California
Posts: 9,939
Website

Shelli Retired Help Advisor, Banner Sponsor

Dilu, Winney... wonderful!  Thanks so much for the seamstressing tutorial.  Your info-packed posts contain just the jargon I needed to formulate new and fascinating sentences which help me APPEAR to know what I'm talking about (always a good thing, that.)

THANK YOU, ladies!

sewzanne Raccoon Creek Bears
New Jersey
Posts: 151

Thank you for all the good advice, as usual everything you've said is very helpful!   Suzanne:)

Amanda Pandy Potter Bears
Staffordshire, UK
Posts: 1,864

Yet again top tips. Some great ideas. Thanks.

carsoncreations Carson Creations
Macomb, IL
Posts: 252
Website

Sewzanne,

I know what you are saying about the fur running different directions even on the straight of the grain.   Even so, I usually cut my bear pattern with the nap or straight of grain.  After cutting out the pattern if a piece has the fur running against the grain or diagonal, I use my steam iron to straighten it.

I hold the steam iron over the fur piece, not touching it, but almost and give it a couple of bursts of steam.  Then take my fingers or a comb and coax the fur to go the right direction.   

I use this technique a lot on the head pieces.  Ever stitch a bear and one side of the head looks a little different shade or color than the other?  Chances are the fur is not running the same direction on the two pieces.   I have even "straightened" the fur after the head has been stitched and stuffed using the steam iron.   Actually, my iron is used more for coaxing bear fur than for ironing clothes ... tee hee.

Hugs,

Wanda

Eileen Baird'sBears
Toronto
Posts: 3,873

Mine too, Wanda!

This is all great advice--thanks girls!

Eileen

Judi Luxembears
Luxemburg, Wisconsin
Posts: 7,379

SUper posts ladies.

Here is another idea for the pot.  When I want to adjust the direction of the mohair I wet it right down to the fabric base.  Then brush it with a wire pet brush.  This works well for me.  Iuse a spray bottle filled with water and get it really wet.  This can be done before or after the bear is made but before any details like shading, airbrushing, painting etc... are added.

Winney Winneybears and Friends
White City, Oregon
Posts: 1,103

Adding another tip....I don't know if you can  steam fur that is synthetic...it  may fry, depending maybe on how close you hold the steamer . I have some wonderful 1" pile synthetic , the fur looks OK at first  then I noticed the pile on the muzle  did not want to lay in the same direction after I made the bear up...agh !!!
I will give steaming  a scrap a try and see what happens, if that dosn't work I will  then wet it, hope to find a solution then ... post here.....Winney

doodlebears Doodlebears
UK
Posts: 7,414

doodlebears Celebration Ambassador

When I find that there is a crease in my mohair or the fur won't lay evenly I wash the mohair in just warm water. Then I hang it on the clothes line and whist it is still wet I brush the fur in the right direction. Let it air dry. I have found this to be an excellent method but do not use something to harsh to brush it with as you may pull on the fur, I use a small teasle brush that was made for mohair. I advise against cutting on the bias as the fabric may not keep a good and even shape.

Jane.

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