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Our second visit to this beautiful city in the north of Thailand This year we did a tour to the Burmese/Thailand border to visit the Meo, Akha & Karen Long-neck & Big Ear hilltribes. What an awesome tour. I would have loved to spend a few days more up here - these people eke out a living through selling crafts and fruit and veges they have grown. It's a lifestyle far removed from our own, and is a really humbling experience.
This is the Meo Hilltribe village we were honoured to be able to walk around with our guide. These people live in absolute poverty, with 10 or more to each house, dirt floors, a sleeping platform for everyone, cooking area & storage shed all under the one roof - my, my - the things we take for granted at home!
These next 2 photos are of the Karen Long-Neck people - the girls wear up to 24 rings around their necks, and they start when they are around 5 years old.
We were in Chiang Mai this year for the Loy Krathong Festival, which is the festival of the full moon in November. If you can imagine a million lanterns floating up into the night sky, and the river full of candle-lit krathongs floating downstream and fireworks being let off EVERYWHERE (even where we were walking!) plus street parades & floats - that's Loy Krathong! We don't have anything that closely resembles this non-stop 4-day party in Australia (nor that many people for that matter!) so you can see why we love the place!
This my krathong which I floated down the Ping River (made from banana trunk wrapped in banana leaves & decorated with candles, incense, orchids) - cost me 20 baht (about 70 cents AUD).
Of course, on a trip to Chiang Mai, a visit to the zoo is a must just to see the BEARS! I have never seen a live panda before (or a sun bear) so this was pretty amazing.
Here's a typical shot - the lady in the middle is pushing a food cart and has stopped at the red light (!!!) with the rest of the modern-day traffic (we also saw little old men riding rickshaws doing the same thing!)
Just had to take this shot - these people had finished their work in the corn fields for the day and were headed home - I suppose you just get home whichever way you can!
If ever you get to Thailand, Chiang Mai is a MUST! We have done so much here - elephant trekking in the jungle, hilltribe village tour, walked through the old city ruins (built in 1276), walked up 306 very steep steps to the top of Doi Suthep overlooking the city, the world-renowned night bazaar shopping & food, and the best eclectic mix of old & new culture I've ever seen.
Next stop - Phuket ... stay tuned for next post.
Marg
Thanks for sharing, one does not realize that all these places exist and that people living there are just so poor.
Lynette
We went to all those places too, including a boat trip on the Mekong River (Golden Triangle). We did not do the steps up to the temple but took the cable car instead
Such a beautiful view and the temple was lovely.
This is a pic looking out from the Hilltribe site:
Thanks so much for these photos . . . very, very beautiful and informative. Do the long-neck folks ever take off their rings?
I don't believe they do but it was explained to us that their necks were made any longer but that the weight of the rings made their shoulder's drop. If they did take off the rings eventually it would go back to normal.
Marion is correct - they also choose not to remove the rings (actually 1 piece wound around and around the neck - each year it is removed and a longer piece wound around (to make another ring). We bought a single neck ring as a souvenir, and it's surprising how heavy it is - I can't imagine walking around every day with several around your neck - the weight would be a killer! They also can't look straight down at their work on the looms - they hold their head & neck at a funny angle to see down.
The rings are to them a thing of beauty - we were told that those girls/women who have had their rings removed have quickly chosen to have them refitted - they felt exposed and uncomfortable without them - go figure!!!!
Still - the Karen Long-Neck & Big Ear people were lovely - very quiet and unassuming. The Akha on the other hand we found to be a bit aggressive - they chased us through their village trying to get us to buy their crafts (Marion, remember the Akha tribespeople walking around the night markets in Chiang Mai rubbing the wooden 'frogs' with little sticks to make that croaking sound - sheeesh!) You couldn't escape from them there either!!!!
Marg
tell me about it - we bought about 10 frogs! Actually we were bothered more by them at the English Pub in Chaing Mai when we were eating. Fortunately my husband likes the frogs. He was annoyed cause I gave some away as souvenirs to friends and he wanted a set of all the sizes. My daughter had to bring him some more when she returned from Thailand this Fall.
I did notice that for all the poverty there was very little actual begging. The only place we saw beggers was up near Laos where a native women holding a baby asked for bhats. I hear there were beggars in Bangkok but we didn't spend too much time there.
Did you get to any of the pottery, silk warehouses, or jewellry stores in Chaing Mai?
I also took a wonderful Thai cooking course there.
Marion
We went to the silver jewellery factories/stores, and last year brought back some of the beautiful hand-painted silk umbrellas & fans. We also went to the orchid farm & the wood carving place on the way to the temple at Doi Suthep. Those guys are so clever.
We saw only a couple of beggars sitting on the street (mostly women with children or the blind man who sang while being led around by his wife). The only time I have ever been upset by what I saw was in Bangkok when we saw a young woman with a newborn sitting on the steps of footbridge across the street - the baby must have only been a few hours old and you had to step over the woman to get by!
This year we had pictures commissioned through a couple of the local charcoal artists in the night bazaar - their work is awesome. Here's a charcoal drawing of our Alaksan Malamute (Monty) which my husband & daughter had framed for me for Xmas.
We tried so much different food throughout Thailand (especially street food while walking around the markets) although our personal favourite was the seafood restaurants in the night bazaar. Although I didn't have any formal cooking lessons, I picked up a great Thai recipe book in Chiang Mai which looks like its got a few of the dishes we had (or similar). I've already tried a few which I was quite pleased with, but of course there's nothing like the real deal! (Note to self: must save money to go back sometime!)
Marg
my, we must of had the same tourist guide I too bought the silk umbrellas and fans. At the orchid & butterfly farm I got some lovely pins and perfumes. Also bought several wood carvings as well as jade sculptures. I especially liked the silver factory (silver bracelet with sapphires, matching earrings, sterling bracelet with gemstones). Did you go to the elephant show - we were amazed by the elephant art, which of course I bought
The Night Market was super. We went early in the evening, about 6:30, as it was really getting started. My husband and I are both grey-haired so we especially welcome at any stall we stopped at! If we bought anything they would rub our money all over the other items in the stall for luck cause we were the first sale of the evening and elderly to boot
We'd love to go back as well some day. Unfortunately the airfare alone from Canada is $2,000 ea but once you get there it is so cheap.
Marion
Marg, your pictures are amazing. The people look so beautiful and gentle. My sister went to Thailand and also came back with pictures of the rings. It it compresses the collar bones so much ...it's mind boggling. And it just goes to show how beauty is in the eye of the beholder. This is so true with everything...people, places, even bears.
I'm off to look at the rest fo your pictures. Thanks for posting !