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Thank-you! I double checked my felt head, but there's no stretch in it at all. It must be due to the fluff on his body I think!
I find thread sculpting to be the best solution in situations like this.
Congratulations on completing him! How big is he?Those progress photos are really informative, thanks for posting them. I've never seen eyelids done that way before, that's a neat idea. I agree, he could use some thread on his toes.
I use a tiny funnel to pour the shot in. It's not a perfect solution, but the most reliable I've found.
(Sorry this is such a late reply, I hope you're still around AJAY)
You shouldn't let that restrict your machine selection. A new walking foot isn't expensive.
I would suggest making a fairly "skinny" armature based on the skeleton rather than the entire body. I find that a bulky armature limits flexibility and produces a unnatural looking bulges when the limbs are bent.
I usually put the fabric skin over the armature and leave numerous openings so I can insert stuffing into specific areas later.
I have a dollmaking book that suggests sewing beads to the inner structure in places like elbows and knees to simulate the look of bone beneath skin. That's something I've always wanted to try which might serve you well here.
Keep in mind that most animals have much looser skin than humans, and a lot of the bulk on a bear is fur. An anatomical diagram of the bear's musculature, or even a photo of a hairless bear will serve you better for the armature.
This looks really promising, I'd love to see further progress shots.
I don't believe there's such a thing as too simple, when it comes to plushies. You don't generally need fancy stitches for plush toys, after all.
The only really important feature is a walking foot, but you can buy one for just about any model. Buying one greatly improved my quality of life haha
I use a small portable iron, I drag it across the fur. I would only do this with mohair or alpaca, never faux fur, it would burn. Blow drying also works well to straighten mohair and make it go in the direction you want it to go. Just dampen and brush as you dry.
I removed the blog. Sadly someone decided to use the tutorials and my work in progress photos to create a bear that I had to look twice at because I thought it was mine. I cannot police the internet. It was a huge disappointment to see this happen after all these years.
Thank you, that's a good tip!
That's a real shame to hear. I'm sorry somebody did that with your tutorials.
I have ironed mohair many times. I have used an iron before I sew and stuff, I have used an iron after I sew and stuff. I have used a human hair flat iron too. Mohair to me is very similar to human hair. I treat it in the same way.
Thank you very much! How do you use the iron after stuffing?
On a sidenote, what happened to your blog? Your tutorials were an absolute goldmine of information.
Thank you Sue Ann,
It does make sense. What is throwing me off is the eye hole is like a piece cut out of the face beside the nose. I have never seen an odd shaped cut on a seam attached to the gusset. Have you made a bear where. The face is multiple colors?
Thanks~Sam
I've made faces that are multiple colors. Can you post a picture of that part of the pattern?
Thanks for the suggestion! I assume you use a slicker brush on longer pile mohair? I prefer working with very short fur, so I think a steam towel will be a better bet. When I get the chance, I will test it on a scrap and report my findings.
I tought i could make the creases with neddle felting...but i belive that to make a true bear it has to be sculpted with thread
I don't think this is true, many artisan bears have needle felted muzzles. Felted paw pads and eyelids are common too.
I've used gathering/shirring techniques to make wrinkled plush toys, but have yet to master it. They may require thread sculpting reinforcement after stuffing.
Has anyone tried ironing mohair to produce a sleeker/flatter pile?
I love your critters! Are you familiar with Arcas Designs (Lisa Page)? She makes the most varied realistic pieces that I know of: http://www.arcasdesigns.com/id12.html
I wonder whether she'd be willing to point you in the right direction?Becky
Thank you
Oh wow, those are fantastic! I need to go through her whole gallery. I could try to work up the courage to contact her, haha
Thanks for the suggestions, everyone! And sorry for the late reply, I was under the weather this week.
When I first started sewing, I could never find good books on pattern design. The best lessons I had in sewing plush was through studying company manufactured stuffed toys. I buy a plush toy with a design I like or am interested in learning (or two so I can have an extra) and take a seam ripper and take it apart, study how it's built, how the pieces fit together, darts making curves. Take the pieces, practice sewing a plush from them in different fabric. From within you can also learn the tricks that are used to make certain parts the way they are, it's really helpful.
I think most people hesitate to do it this way because they have empathy and don't want to hurt toys. But it's a great way to learn.
Have you looked on etsy for plush patterns? Some sellers have really cute designs
what kind of style toys were you interested in making?
I have looked on etsy, but I generally can't find things with the degree of complexity or types of animals I want (it's pretty difficult to find a tarantula sewing pattern). I do want to pick up a few for study though. You're absolutely right, I need to work up the courage and do some disassembly (dismembering a toy inflames my sense of thrift, rather than empathy, haha).
I like working very small and very detailed (yes, I enjoy making things hard for myself). The little tentacle-faced monster I'm working on has defined eyebrow ridges and posable tentacles, but the head shape is still not as refined as I would like, so the pattern will be undergoing further revision.
I would also like to make realistic animals. Attached is a test for a gecko pattern I'm working on (please excuse the unfinished neck and lumpy back, the next version is getting a gusset there). I'm not wild about the look of jointed animals, and want to learn to make well-shaped bodies without separate limbs. I also want to have a lot of control over head shape without relying on felted muzzles. Thread sculpting works to a point, but I feel like it's best used to further accentuate a well-designed head.
If you can find a copy, I'd recommend How to Make and Design Stuffed Toys by Rudi de Sarigney.
It's from 1971, and even longer than yours, but the drawings are clear, and there are principles discussed as well as patterns provided.
Another possibility is Constructing Teddy and His Friends by Jennifer Laing. It's a slim book of 12 patterns with instructions, including elephant, monkey, koala, rat, rabbit, and even humanoids (elf and gnome). Jennifer is one of the great ones, and a person could learn a lot by following her patterns.
Becky
The reviews suggest How to Make and Design Stuffed Toys doesn't go much beyond the basics, but I'm sure I can pick up a new trick or two from it. Thanks for the tip!
How to Make and Design Stuffed Toys looks good, but again, the reviews say it's more geared towards beginners. Constructing Teddy and His Friends comes with a nasty pricetag. Do you know if it's available as a downloadable purchase anywhere?
I got my start with 'The Complete Book of Teddy-Bear Making Techniques' by Alicia Merrett, it is a great book for beginners and I still refer to it all the time.
Another wonderful resource I use all the time is Jennifer Laing's 'Teddy Bear Art: How to Design & Make Great Teddy Bears'. Happy designing!
I do have 'The Complete Book of Teddy-Bear Making Techniques', it's a great reference for jointing and eyes and such, but it doesn't really go into patterning for anything beyond teddy-shaped things. Teddy Bear Art is on my wishlist as well, but presumably has the same issue.
I'm going to pick up 'Anatomy of a Doll: The Fabric Sculptor's Handbook' by Susanna Oroyan. If it suits my needs well I'll be sure to let you all know about it.
(I'm not sure if this is the right place for this thread, my apologies)
I'm partway through Anne Dyer's "Design Your Own Stuffed Toys". It's a superb resource that goes into far more depth regarding the geometry of advanced pattern design than anything I've ever read. That said, it is a HUGE slog to get through. This book is nearly 50 years old and really shows its age. The pen and ink diagrams are very hard to decipher and never on the same page as the paragraphs referencing them.
This book has so much valuable information but it's in dire need of an update. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be a revised edition. Do any of you have this book? I practically need a study group to make sense of some parts.
I've only colored small areas, but I found that Copic markers didn't effect the feel of the fabric. India ink markers on the other hand, made it feel a bit coarser.
I've heard Pan Pastels work great for coloring bears, but haven't tried it yet.
I use zinc coated bbs. I buy them at Walmart. I have done tests on them to see if they would discolor or rust. I have soaked them, let the dry then put them in a plastic bag for months, no rust, no color change. I have also done the same thing with crushed garnet. I have soaked them wrapped them wet in paper towel and put them in a plastic bag. I have left them for months to see if they discolored, they have not. The crushed garnet is good for mini bears, it is heavier than glass beads.
I do not put my bbs in a pouch. I mix them into the polyester and the soft pellets inside the body. I personally do not like the crunchy feeling that I get when they are all together in a pouch. I like not to feel them at all. They are large enough that they do not work their way out. I always put a layer of stuffing around the inside of the body, and then start adding the pellets, bbs, and the rest of the polyfill. Then I mush it all together.
What is the benefit of crushed garnet vs regular sand? Where does one acquire crushed garnet?
Thank you, that's exactly what I wanted to know!
Oh thank you, that's a great tip!
Have you kept track of how your patterns have changed over the years? That would be really interesting to see. (I'm a big fan of your work by the way and the tutorials on your blog have been an invaluable resource, thank you so much for making them)
I'm a ludicrous perfectionist and reluctant to commit my designs to good fabric until they're PERFECT, which as you can imagine, never happens. BUT I've finally found something of a happy medium, I recently got some upholstery velvet samples that have the right backing and behave beautifully, but aren't quite as nice as Sassy fabric or mohair, ect. That makes it a lot easier to shrug off things that don't turn out exactly how I wanted.
Yeah, the difference between fur and plain fabric has definitely pattern testing a bit difficult (or unreliable at least). I've been making my pattern tests out of muslin or felt, which leads to a totally different silhouette. I'm getting tempted to try making pattern tests from cheap faux fur, but that stuff is usually has a knit backing rather than woven. I want to develop a lion pattern and I can't see any other way to work out the mane. Maybe I can back it with muslin to reduce the stretch?
Not anymore, I had one years ago. Dang!
I'm making a lil hyena and it needs some spots. I've got some copics, india ink pens, and prismacolor pencils. I'm testing them out on scraps of fabric, but wondered if any of you guys might have some tips. Thanks!
I've seem some people make little shelves out of plywood or foam board. It looks pretty easy http://www.sennandsons.com/blog/diy-display-risers
In addition to little risers, this stall uses cheap storage cubes to good effect http://lithefidercreatures.tumblr.com/p … ade-worked
Title says it all. Pattern testing is a seemingly endless cycle for me, I started wondering how other artists feel about it. I'm about to start version 4 of a pattern, and I feel like I can't see the end of the road at all, hahaha.
Yeah, I was going to make sure to get either stainless or zinc coated steel shot to prevent rust. Thanks for the tip about customs!
I think buying steel shot from sports or ballistics supply will be a lot cheaper than buying it from craft supply places. You can get a 10 lb bag of 2mm, anti-rust steel shot for like 20 bucks. Unfortunately 10 lbs is way more than I could possibly need, haha.
I thought about sand, but I couldn't figure out how to make em leakproof. I had some toy lizards filled with sand as a kid that always leaked everywhere. Not a fun time.
I've read that some people make a little nest of stuffing at the bottom of a foot then just pour the weighting material in. I would worry that they'd get displaced with time. Am I just paranoid?
Ooh, aquarium gravel is a good idea.
Thank you! I'm leaning towards steel shot, I like the feel best. I like making minis the most, so I'll need really tiny shot. Any mini makers out there able to advise me on size? I was thinking 2mm, that seems to be the smallest I can find.
