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shantell Apple Dumpling Designs
Willamette Valley Oregon
Posts: 3,128

I'm not particularly having any problems in this area not that I haven't on occassion felt the need to redo a limb  bear_angry  bear_grin

Do you have any secrets you use to close up the seams after stuffing to ensure that you have a smooth seam area?

Just thought it might be interesting to see what others do.

Thanks

WildThyme Wild Thyme Originals
Hudson, Ohio
Posts: 3,115

Hey there Shantell!  To close seams, I use a ladder stitch... not too big, not too small, not too tight, not too loose.... just a matter of practice to get it so that it's just right with no stitches showing, no gathery little dimples from pulling too tight..... and since I've already trimmed the fur from the seam allowence... no extra fur on the outside.  Took me forever, it seems, to get nice seams in the closing areas!  Are there other ways to do it!?

Beary truly yours,
Kim Basta
Wild thyme Originals

marie Debonaire Bears
Virginia, USA
Posts: 30

I do it pretty much like you do, Kim.  I use bonded nylon thread, which seems to be very strong but I have broken it a couple times. 

I made a bear out of denim once and I was very unhappy with my closings.  My stitches showed quite badly on that material, and they don't on mohair.

Laura Lynn Teddy Bear Academy
Nicholasville, KY
Posts: 3,653
Website

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Hi Shantell!

Like Kim I also use the ladder stitch.  I use upholstery thread - doubled.  What helps me to get that fabric to fold down nicely into the seam is that right before and while I pull the seam closed - I also press down on the seam with either a big fat needle or my small cotter pin turner.  I also do not try to close the entire seam at once.  I take about 6 stitches, then close, take a few more, close... as I may need to add a little more stuffing I find as I close.  Hope that makes sense!

Edited to add:  Before I've even turned my pieces I do add some strength to the seam openings by using Aleene's Stop Fraying to the seam openings.  It's a bit thick and sticky (so finish ALL machine sewing before using it!!) but I find it really helps to add some strength to the seam openings.

WildThyme Wild Thyme Originals
Hudson, Ohio
Posts: 3,115

Laura Lynn... I also press down to get the fabric to turn under nicely... only I use an old Bloomingdale's credit card!  Nevr bought anything with it!!!!  bear_innocent And now that Bloomies card is actually an integral part of my bear making tools!   bear_grin

Beary truly yours,
Kim Basta
Wild Thyme Originals

Laura Lynn Teddy Bear Academy
Nicholasville, KY
Posts: 3,653
Website

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WildThyme wrote:

And now that Bloomies card is actually an integral part of my bear making tools!   :lol:

Oh Kim that's hillarious!  And maybe a better tool than I'm using... have to try that  bear_whistle

WildThyme Wild Thyme Originals
Hudson, Ohio
Posts: 3,115

I'm sure that it accomplishes the exact same thing as your tools, BUT..... Tell the husband that only a Bloomingdales (or some other large department store card) will work.  And that the more the card is used at the store (read: "broken in") the better it will function as a "seam roller."   bear_tongue   Just kidding... as I said, I never used mine... not sure it was ever even activated.... it matters not!   bear_innocent

Beary truly yours,
Kim Basta
Wild Thyme Originals

shantell Apple Dumpling Designs
Willamette Valley Oregon
Posts: 3,128

Kim & Laura Lynn...I do that too...pressing down on the seam...but have yet to use any "tools."  I also do the same as Laura Lynn and take a few stitches then gently pull closed and add stuffing as I go if needed. 

Just thought it would be interesting to see what others do.   I have yet to try trimming my seam allowances...big chicken here afraid I'll trim too deep but I might try trimming JUST the closing area to get rid of the extra fur.

Thanks!!!

kbonsall Kim-Bee Bears
Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,645

This is the part of bearmaking I dread is closing seams!  BLEECH!  I always have the seams open until I actually sell the bear LMAO  in very few circumstances they are already sewn up prior LOL dont ask me why, I dunno bear_original

These tips will come in handy bear_original  I find that longer pile my seams are fine but with short pile, I get antsy that they arent as nice... they are getting much better than they were... bear_original

psichick78 Flying Fur Studios
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 3,073

I have to admit that this is one part of bearmaking that has always worked for me.
I also use a ladder stitch, pulling tight after about 6 stitches. I also stuff as I close and use fray check to make it stiff. I find it works fine, and I can't ever really tell where I've closed up my bear.
I use either regular thread doubled up, or matching upolstery thread.

I still like closing seams, better than sewing on ears...............

kbonsall Kim-Bee Bears
Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,645

I use to dread sewing on ears but since I got my curved needles (about 2 weeks ago) it is SOOO much easier now!

Winney Winneybears and Friends
White City, Oregon
Posts: 1,103

I always trim fur off the  openings and fray check. I then use 2 strands of waxed artificial thread...because it never slips and it never breaks.

I stitch on one side then  go exactly across to the  other side and make a stitch  ... use my left thumb to push down a little on the seam... then pull the thread smoothly thru until both sides close . No need to pull any harder than this AT ANY TIME  to close...

I keep the stitch sets 1/4" apart and 1/8" on tiny bears. After stitching a few sets I use the small needle nose pliers and stuff up under the already stitched seam , this works great as I go along so there are no empty spaces.

The waxed thread will hold all these stitches even if you let go of your thread to stuff...but just to be sure you have not stuffed it open at the end of your last stitches...pull on the thread a little before you start stitching again.

I found that this kind of thread works better when closing real fur bears as I think other threads tend to cut the pelts ...because you have to keep pulling on the thread to re-tighten the stitches every so often " a sawing action " on real pelts. I also got tired of doing all that work  and finding later that I had either bumpy seams or open seam holes so you could see the stuffing...( stitches pulled open somehow) .

Another thing I picked up by doing the work on REAL FUR BEARS  is I do not finish off at the end of the seam....I go under the seam back about a half inch then out right in the middle of the seam BETWEEN 2 stitches then make 2 knots then back in that same "hole " to bury it then out anywhere. Works for me.... Winney

All Bear All Bear by Paula
Kent
Posts: 5,162
Website

I use ladder stitch in the same way most of you have already described, a few small stitches at a time and pressing them into the seam space before pulling tight, to turn the edges under neatly.  I always trim every seam prior to starting work ... it's a laborious job, but I think well worth the effort.  Winney, I like your method of finishing off - very neat. 

The best tool for the job I find, is a curved upholstery needle.  I use it for closing seams and stitching on ears and couldn't manage without it!

Mo Beary Mo Bear Designs
Redcliff, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 1,536
Website

I have seen patterns where there is an extra flap of material where you close.  Does anyone do this with their patterns?


Jane

Cleathero Creations Cleathero Creations
Ripley, Queensland
Posts: 1,925

I'm curious about that too.  haven't quite figured out how it works properly  :redface: To me it would just get in the wqay and cause more bulk.

fredbear Fred-i-Bear
Johannesburg
Posts: 2,243
Website

Before getting to closing of the seams, make sure that the two seams that must be closed are the same length, and match,sometimes what can happen is that when you have sewn the two sides together the fabric has slipped slightly and then the seams do not match.They look like they match, especially when you have stuffed the limb, you trim, fray check, tuck, and ladder stitch and then instead of the perfect flat seam, you get a wonky seam. bear_sad
With my bears, I tack the pieces together, using an overcast stictch, then either hand stitch or machine sew depending on size , fabric, or area I am working on. This tends to hold the two pieces together.
Often when working with your project it is not the end piece causing the problem but the very start where the problem has begun.
bear_original Lynette

Cleathero Creations Cleathero Creations
Ripley, Queensland
Posts: 1,925

My bears usually look like some sort of mutant echidna when I start as I pin everything and use lots of them.  I start a pin at either end and one in the middle then work back from there.
Lots of pins, lots and lots pins.

melissa Honeythorpe Bears
Wellington, New Zealand
Posts: 1,789
Website

I have seen patterns where there is an extra flap of material where you close.  Does anyone do this with their patterns?

Jane,

I don't personally do this (my bears are too small) but a friend of mine does it and her bears are absolutely perfectly finished (she invariably wins bear of show at any show she enters).  I'n not sure of her exact process though.

One thing I will say, if you are doing small bears, make sure your seam allowance where you ladderstitch isn't too small - having a little  bit extra fabric helps it all tuck in nicely and disappear.

Oh, and if you can find the really fine artificial sinew that splits into three strands (not the thick gummy stuff) you can close the tiniest (and biggest) f bears with it with perfect results.  Your stitching completely disappears.

Winney Winneybears and Friends
White City, Oregon
Posts: 1,103

Paula...I will have to try that curved needle..may work better for me...

Melissa.... I have tried both waxy types of thread...The one that is the stickiest is artificial sinew I got at Tandy Leather supply..its a maple color , very loaded with wax but I love it for pulling in the eyes,,but I don't use any more then 2 strands or it wont get thru the poly stuffing especially if the stuffing is a cottony type that packs down harder. I think you can buy it at Michaels too.

The other waxy thread I also got at Tandys or Huffs Leather Supply ( one doesn't have stores any more ) but also found it at Michaels too... I think its a waxed linen thread, on a spool, comes in white, brown, black....I split that for 2 strands too.. ... Winney

Shelli SHELLI MAKES
Chico, California
Posts: 9,939
Website

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Bambridge Bears wrote:

My bears usually look like some sort of mutant echidna

HAHAHA!   bear_grin  bear_grin  bear_tongue  bear_grin

I think echidnas are really cute.  Maybe I'll make one!

psichick78 Flying Fur Studios
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 3,073

Okay Erin, I'll send you my heads and ears to sew, and I'll close up your seams.

If only we were neighbours............

Cleathero Creations Cleathero Creations
Ripley, Queensland
Posts: 1,925

I can't find a decent curved needle they are all so thick and I would really prefer something finer. i have hunted high and low anyone is Australia know where i can get one?

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