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TamiL Dolls N Dreams
Aurora, Colorado
Posts: 6,454

I got my starter kit of needles for my bear class. Can anyone explain to me about
the different needles the T or S and what is used for what.......................
The T shape is triangular at it's point, while the S shape is star shaped, with four edges and corners or angles.

I'm starting out on needle felted toes!  bear_original
Thanks in advance!!!

psichick78 Flying Fur Studios
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 3,073

You know, I don't really know.
I think the star tips are more for finishing. Although I'm not really sure.

Just use them all, see what you like best. I have my favorite needles but no idea what they are. Doesn't really matter untill I want to re-order them.

Dilu Posts: 8,574

http://www.purelyneysa.com/felting/need … ing_1.html


I believe Neysa, who is a help advisor but isn't able to visit very often, has an explanation on her web site.

While I do needlefelting I can never keep the needles straight....I go by feel, how the needle feels going in.....

TamiL Dolls N Dreams
Aurora, Colorado
Posts: 6,454

LOL Mine have little tags on them right now, but I was thinking about maybe color coding them some how, is that what everyone does???
I think I'm going to like this needle felting I'm having loads of fun and I'm just working on paw pads LOL

Judi Luxembears
Luxemburg, Wisconsin
Posts: 7,379

I must have missed this post yesterday.  Ladies, those paper tags WILL fall off so I suggest using nail polish to indentify them.  Also, the more you felt the more you will become familiar with what needles are what.  It is pretty easy.  Just use the needle that feels right and is giving you the right amount of felting.  There shoud be some resistance when felting.  If not, use a larger needle.

I spent ALL day yesterday on a new bear head design(grizzly) with felted details.  This is a big bear but it only took me about two hours to felt his muzzle.  NOW, a few days ago, I worked on another new design( black bear) and his muzzle took me more than SIX hours....the reason, Iused roving for one bear and batt for the other.  Batt felts up much more firmly, in less time, with no fuzzies!

Have fun!

TamiL Dolls N Dreams
Aurora, Colorado
Posts: 6,454

Thanks for the info Judi  bear_original
When I have some free time come up I want to take your class also!  bear_original

rkr4cds Creative Design Studio (RKR4CDS)
suburban Chicago
Posts: 2,044

Tri vs Star shapes:

Thx, Renae for your 'prompt'!

It's correct that a Tri(angular) needle has 3 sides or bevels and the Star has 4.

Let's see if I can explain this clearly - - 
Both styles have the same size (gauge) of shaft. 
The barbed notches are in proportion to the size of the side angles in each size needle.
Depending in the manufacturer and the style of the needle, each of the edges can have between 1 to 4 barbs on each 'corner' edges.

The size of the formed barbs on Star needles are slightly smaller than those on the same gauge Tri, due to the shaft being formed into 4 sides rather than 3. Their width & depth is in direct relationship to the width of the side/bevel, making those on Tri needles slightly larger than on the Star, of the same gauge/size needle. This makes the formed notches (Not all manufacturers 'form' their barbs; some are 'cut' into the edges and these are inferior needles. The sharp/rough/uneven/unbeveled edges will actually cut the fiber rather than just carrying it into the fiber mass.) just slightly smaller on Stars than on Tris.

We always start with the largest gauged needles first. When the penetration becomes more resistant or difficult, you go to the next smaller size. It's not strictly necessary to use both Tri & Star in every size, but a 38 (or 38, etc...) Star is considered smaller than a 38 Tri so it would slip into the sculpture slightly easier. 

The slightly smaller barbs of this example - 38 Star - push a slightly smaller amount of fiber in, likening a 38 Star closer to a 40Tri than to the 38Tri in its felting action.

The most available sizes are 36 T & S, 38 T & S, 40T & S, 42T, Pinch & Crown. 

Unless you're working very softly, a 19 & 32 needle is not necessary. In Industry it's used with fibers like coconut husk, hemp & similar large fibers. In wool, if you're needling coarse fibers like Navajo/Churro fiber, this might be useful in the beginning stages but it isn't necessary.

The only one that is positively useless is the tear-drop shaped needle, with 8 barbs right next to each other along the 1 'corner' edge, This needle has a specific use in textile manufacturing, that being to carry the fiber through a woven weft & warp backing without damaging it. 

Are you thoroughly confused now?? I'll add that I use 9 needle sizes & shape listed above, but depending upon the breed of fiber, not all of them give the best results - I like the widest variety to be able to choose from. 

One last point: all needles come coated with machine oil to keep them from rusting in storage. I have yet to hear of a retailer that takes the time to remove the oil before dipping or painting the needle tops with enamels, nail polish, tool grip plastics., etc. That's why the color wears off so quickly - there wasn't a good bond made between the two.

TamiL Dolls N Dreams
Aurora, Colorado
Posts: 6,454

Thank you for so much great info! Very interesting!  bear_original

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